Modeblicke Videos

Posted on 7. July 202210. November 2022 by Catharina Ruess

TU-Dortmund (Master Cultural Analysis and Cultural Mediation Project Seminar): Production of digital video clips with students for science-communication in social networks and in museums in cooperation with the LWL-Industriemuseum TextilWerk Bocholt.
As a small team, we developed concepts for video shows in which we presented current research of the cultural anthropology of textiles and fashion studies to a broader audience. Excerpts from my work can be found, for example, in this video: Fashion and Death
or here: Hipsters.

Our self-produced clips were released in spring/summer 2022, some were also shown in presentations and exhibitions. All videos and more information about the project can be found on our website: www.modeblicke.de

Instagram

“Hipster and (Anti-) Fashion”

Posted on 9. February 202211. February 2022 by Catharina Ruess

In: Steinhoff, Heike (Ed.): Hipster Culture. Transnational and Intersectional Perspectives. Bloomsbury 2021.

The article elucidates how the performativity of talking and writing about hipsters creates the hipster as a narrative figure of both fashion and anti-fashion and their dialectical relationship. Providing an overview of historical and contemporary dress practices, this chapter illustrates syles including their connotations and gender constructions attributed to hipsters. It also discusses this phenomenon in its relation to pro-fascist body images of masculinity.

Publications

2022
Vom Streetstyle zum Streetfight. Faschismus im Hipster-Gewand. In: Schweizerisches Archiv für Volkskunde / Archives Suisses des Traditions Populaires. 118. Jahrgang, Heft 2, S. 31-49. (soon)

Tempo – Tomboys – Transformations. Modes des voitures et femmes machines des années 1930. In: Andrieu, Bernard (Hg.): Corps. Revue Interdisciplinaire. (soon)

Die schwarze Lederjacke. In: Coolness. Inszenierung von Mode im 20. Jahrhundert. LWL-Industriemuseum, TextilWerk Bocholt, Staatliches Textil- und Industriemuseum Augsburg, S. 16-25.

2021
Hipster and (Anti-)Fashion. In: Steinhoff, Heike (Hg.): Hipster Culture. Transnational and Intersectional Perspectives. London, New York, S. 105–128.

2020
Narrative des Todes in Style und Sound Performances der Popkultur. In: Haller, Melanie; Helmers, Traute; Mallon, Stefanie (Hg.): Der Tod und das Ding. Textile Materialitäten im Kontext der Vergänglichkeit. Münster, New York, S. 113–154.

Imagining Cool Fashion Bodies and “Exoticism“ in the Literature of the Weimar Republic. In: Zone Moda Journal, Vol. 10, No. 1S, 2020, S. 239–254.

Thinking Through Faces. Die Moden Masken des Bösen. In: Mannherz, Jonas; Lietz, Heiko (Hg.): Gastgarten. Vestimentaer. No. 1. Hamburg, S. 80-85.

Coole Widerständigkeit unter dem Zeichen des Jazz – Lässige Demokratie-Bekenntnisse der ’Tänzerischen Generation’. In: Elsbach, Sebastian; Böhles, Marcel; Braune, Andreas (Hg.): Demokratische Persönlichkeiten der Weimarer Republik. Jena, S. 189–208.

2019
Klangkörper Frau. Sound das unbekannte Wesen. Die Absenz der Instrumente in der Darstellung von Pop-Musikerinnen. In: Rebecca Grotjahn, Sarah Schauberger (Hg.): Das Geschlecht musikalischer Dinge. Jahrbuch für Musik und Gender 11. Hildesheim, S. 89–100.

Wilde Cow-Girls, Hipster und ’White Negroes’ in Romanen der Zwanziger Jahre: Coole Modekörper im Spannungsfeld zwischen Expressionismus und Neuer Sachlichkeit. In: Eichhorn, Kristin; Lorenzen, Johannes (Hg.): Expressionismus 10/19; Körperlichkeiten. Berlin, S. 100–112.

2018
Coole Posen in schwarzem Leder. Visualisierungsstrategien von Coolness in Literatur und Kultur der Weimarer Republik. In: Elke Grittmann, Katharina Lobinger, Irene Neverla et al. (Hg.): Körperbilder – Körperpraktiken. Visuelle Repräsentationen, Regulationen und Aneignungen vergeschlechtlichter Körper und Identitäten in Medienkulturen. Köln, S. 136–157.

2017
Looking Cool in Black Leather. In: Lauren Downing Peters (Hg.): The Fashion Studies Journal. Issue No. 4. August 2017.

2016
Mode und Coolness in Romanen und Essays der Weimarer Republik. Hamburg.

Selected Articles / Contributions

2019
Interview in: Braun, Jessica: Servicepersonal in Designer-Outfits. In: Der Feinschmecker

Interview in: Zobel, Hanna: Boho-Style, Culottes und Streifen Shirts. Diese Geschichten stecken hinter deinen Lieblingsklamotten. In: Spiegel.de

05/2016
Interview in: Pfannkuch, Katharina: Revolution und Biedermeier. Blumenkranz als Kopfschmuck. In: Frankfurter Allgemeinen Zeitung. 31.05.2016.

11/2013
“Kapitulation“. Wir sind Viele. In: This Book is Tocotronic. Gera.

09/2012
Der Feinschmecker. Junge Küche. Glosse „Hilfe, Mein Mann kocht“.

Presentations

6/2022
„Wildfänge außer Rand und Band. Pop-Mädchen des frühen 20. Jahrhunderts“. Conference “Mädchen*Fantasien. Zur Politik und Poetik des Mädchenhaften”, University of Zürich

07/2021
„Propagierte Antimode. Nonkonformismen im Zeichen aktueller Medienlogiken.“ Forschungskolloquium at Department of Cultural Anthropology / European Ethnology, University Münster)

06/2021
„Style Confusions, Hipster and Masculinities. Alt-Rights in Nonconformist Uniforms.“ International Conference „Fashion Tales 2020 +1. Politics Through Wardrobes“. Università Cattolica del Sacro Cuore in Milano

03/2021
„Mode – Masken – Maskierungen“. Department of Fashion Design at (FHNW) in Basel

02/2021
„Narrative des Todes in Style und Sound Performances der Popkultur.“ Jour Fixe netzwerks mode textil e.V.

01/2021
„Der, die, das Hipster. Eine Spurensuche.“ Forschungskolloquium at Department of Cultural Anthropology, TU Dortmund

10/2019
„Youthquake in der Weimarer Republik“ Forschungskolloquium at Department of Cultural Anthropology, TU Dortmund

05/2019
„Wild Girls, Hipster and ‘White Negroes‘ in the Literature of the Weimar Republic: Cool Fashion Bodies Between Expressionism and New Objectivity.“ Zone Moda Conference 2019 „Be Cool. Aesthetic Imperatives And Social Practices“. Rimini Campus and the International Research Centre for Culture, Fashion and Communication, University of Bologna

01/2019
„Distorted Sound Waves from Mexico City to Berlin. The Continuity of Female Transcultural Noise Performances as Acts of Resilience.“ Research Network Day „Persistence“ CTM Festival in Berlin

10/2018
„Der Style der Dinge – zur ästhetischen Praxis zwischen Körpern, Kleidern und Musikinstrumenten.“ 4. Jahrestagung der Kulturwissenschaftlichen Gesellschaft „Ästhetische Praxis und Kulturwissenschaftliche Forschung“ in Hildesheim

08/2018
„Coole Widerständigkeit unter dem Zeichen des Jazz – Lässige Demokratie-Bekenntnisse der Tänzerischen Generation.“ Konferenz „Demokratische Persönlichkeiten der Weimarer Republik“, Friedrich-Schiller-University Jena

05/2018
„Coolness.“ Department of Aesthetic Education, Department of Textiles + Fashion at the European University Flensburg

05/2017
„Visualisierungsstrategien von Coolness in der Literatur der Weimarer Republik.“
netzwerk mode textil e.V. in Berlin

12/2016
„Unübertroffen an Formschönheit – Gespräche über Mode und Kunst“ at HFBK, Hamburg

11/2016
„Mode-Körper-Raum. Die kulturellen Bedeutungsdimensionen der schwarzen Lederjacke.“ Kunstverein in Hannover

09/2016
„Coole Posen mit Lederjacken und Zigaretten.“ Jahrestagung „Körperbilder – Körperpraktiken. Visuelle Repräsentationen, Regulationen und Aneignungen vergeschlechtlichter Körper und Identitäten in Medienkulturen“ der DGPuK- Specialist Groups Media, Public and Gender and Visual Communication in Hamburg

09/2016
„Klangkörper Frau. Sound das unbekannte Wesen.“ Pop Lectures at Reeperbahn Festival in Hamburg

11/2015
„Coole Posen und Bekleidungstechniken.“ Seminar „Mode und Bewegung“, HAW Hamburg

11/2012
„Talkrunde Design“ with Rudolf Pütz (Vitra GmbH), Stefan Lamm (Ford Europe), Peter Zec (Red Dot) Blue Monday Lounge in Köln

03/2012
„Kreativtechniken im Modedesign.“ 3. Germn Design Congress „Der Wahnsinn hat Methode“ in Essen

Courses

WiSe 2022/23
Nocturnal Fashion Worlds (Bachelor Seminar, TU Dortmund)

Fashions and Media. Digital Fashion Practices (Master Seminar, TU Dortmund)

SoSe 2022
Fashion Victims, Nerds and Hipsters – Caricatures and Social Figures of Fashion (Bachelor Seminar, TU Dortmund)

Clothing as Message, Propaganda and Fashion (Bachelor Seminar, TU Dortmund)

WiSe 2021/22
Museum and Media. „Mode Blicke“. Production of digital video clips for science-communication in social networks and in museums in cooperation with the LWL-Industriemuseum TextilWerk Bocholt (Master Cultural Analysis and Cultural Mediation Project Seminar, TU Dortmund)

SoSe 2021
Textile Contexts. Searching, Collecting, Curating. Film Presentations of the Cultural Anthropology of Textiles on YouTube (Master Cultural Analysis and Cultural Mediation Project Seminar, Dortmund).

WiSe 2020/21
Textile Contexts. Searching, Collecting, Curating. Film Presentations of the Cultural Anthropology of Textiles on YouTube (Master Cultural Analysis and Cultural Mediation Project Seminar, TU Dortmund).

SoSe 2020
Theories and methods of vestimentary cultural analysis. Body – Clothing – Fashions. (Bachelor Textile Design Seminar, TU Dortmund)

Cultural Studies of Fashions. Fashionable masks in gaze regimes of industrialization 2.0 -4.0 (Master Cultural Analysis and Cultural Mediation Seminar, TU Dortmund

WiSe 2019/20
Lecture. Introduction Cultural Studies of Textiles (Bachelor and Master programs, TU Dortmund

Cultural History of Textiles. Fashion Stagings of Styles and Sounds (Master Cultural Analysis and Cultural Mediation Seminar, TU Dortmund).

Fashions and Media. Rebellions – Anti-Fashion – Fashion (Master Cultural Analysis and Cultural Mediation Seminar, TU Dortmund).

SoSe 2019
Fashion and beauty strategies of mobile identities in contemporary literature. (Bachelor Textile Design Seminar, University of Paderborn)

Dress- , Fashion-, and Design History
Scientific work (Bachelor Seminar, AMD Hamburg)

Fashion on the Move. Fashion and (Post-)Colonialism in a Global World. Excursion on the topic “Fashionable Exoticism and Colonialism” at the Übersee-Museum Bremen (Bachelor/ Master of Arts Seminar, HFK Bremen

Coolness. Rebellious games with fashion classics.

Excursion to the exhibition “68. Pop and Protest” at the Museum für Kunst und Gewerbe Hamburg (Bachelor/ Master of Arts Seminar HFK Bremen

SoSe 2018
Cool styling practices from flapper era to rave culture. (Bachelor Seminar, University Paderborn)

Fashion – Body – Space (Bachelor/ Master of Arts Seminar, HFK Bremen)

SoSe 2017
Fashion History II
Cultural Studies, Fashion Theory

2009 – 2018
Workshops and seminars, dress & design history, concepts , development and research in fashion design, cultural studies seminars on topics such as “Animal – Man – Machine”, “Sustainability. Green Fashion”, “The Uncanny in Fashion”, “Modern Classics”, “Baroque / Wunderkammer”, “Fashion and Film”, “Loops and Textiles” (Academy for Fashion and Design, Hannover)

Narrative des Todes in Style und Sound Performances der Popkultur

Posted on 6. February 20229. February 2022 by Catharina Ruess

In: Haller, Melanie; Helmers, Traute; Mallon, Stefanie (Ed.): Der Tod und das Ding. Textile Materialitäten im Kontext der Vergänglichkeit. Waxmann 2021.

This contribution explores the resonances and connections between body-dress-sound. The question is how narratives of death are expressed in pop culture, fashion, and sound performances through bodies, textiles, and sounds.